Sump Pump Failed: What to Do Before the Rain Wins
Check it before the water rises
Do this now
- Check power first: is the pump plugged in, did a GFCI trip, did a breaker go?
- Lift the float for about ten seconds or pour water into the pit until the float trips. A healthy pump turns on and off at least twice in a test.
- Check the discharge pipe outside: not plugged, not frozen, and sending water away from the foundation.
- Clear debris from the sump itself; gravel and grit can jam or wreck an impeller, and a pump that sounds like it's pumping gravel is telling you something.
- If the pit is rising and electrical anything is getting wet or is in or near water, turn off the power at the main breaker or fuse on the service panel, but if you would have to stand in water to reach it, call an electrician to turn it off. Never turn power on or off or use an electric tool or appliance while standing in water.
- If the basement floods anyway: dry within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold, and run generators outside only, at least 20 feet from the building.
Can you fix it yourself?
Everything above is homeowner work, and NDSU Extension's own advice is that if you're not familiar with sump pumps, have a licensed plumber confirm the pump is ready. Swapping a like-for-like pump in a clean pit is a confident-DIYer job; sizing a new system, adding a check valve, or re-running discharge is plumber territory. Common failure causes are unglamorous: rusted motor bearings and a float switch that stops making contact.
When to call a pro
- The pump runs but the pit doesn't drop, which can mean a failed check valve or blocked discharge you can't reach
- Short-cycling or a stuck float that repeats after cleaning
- You want a battery backup installed and sized properly
- Finished basement, or anything electrical got wet
We're a referral directory, not a contractor; this button opens our request form.
What to ask the plumber
- What pump capacity does this pit and inflow actually need?
- Will you add or service the check valve and test the full cycle before leaving?
- What battery backup options fit here, and how long will each run in an outage?
- Where should the discharge terminate so it stops recycling water back to the foundation?
Questions we hear
Why a battery backup?
Because pump failures and power failures travel together: the same storm that fills your pit takes out the grid. NDSU Extension describes the standard setup, a battery-powered backup pump in the same sump that runs only when the primary fails, and stresses that battery maintenance is what makes it real. Peachtree Corners' flood guidance gives metro Atlanta homeowners the same advice: choose a pump with battery backup.
How often should I test it?
Before each rainy season at minimum, with the float test above. Make sure it starts and stops at least twice, listen for grinding, and eyeball the outside discharge. Five minutes, twice a year, versus a flooded basement.
My pump is fine but the basement still gets water. Now what?
Water that arrives faster than the pit collects it is a drainage problem: grading, gutters, downspout extensions, or perimeter drains. That's beyond this page, but it's the right question to put to a contractor, because a bigger pump can't fix water that never reaches the pit.
Sources
Every number and local fact above comes from one of these, read 2026/10. Spot something out of date? Tell us.
- North Dakota State University Extension: Now Is the Time to Check Your Sump Pump
- CDC: Guidelines for Cleaning Safely After a Disaster
- U.S. EPA: A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home
- U.S. EPA: Flood Cleanup: Protect Indoor Air and Your Health
- City of Peachtree Corners: Protecting Property from Flood Hazards